Choosing between 1310 and 1350 starts with the complete driveshaft, not a number on a shopping list. These designations identify joint families with different dimensions and load capabilities. A comparable 1350 assembly generally provides greater torque capacity, but it must also fit the vehicle and operate correctly through suspension travel.
Offroad Trading Company put together this guide to help Jeep, Bronco and truck owners compare actual configurations. If you are still deciding whether replacement is necessary, begin with when to upgrade your driveshaft.
What the series number tells you—and what it does not
A U-joint series helps identify a compatible group of joints and yokes. It does not describe overall shaft length, tube diameter, vehicle horsepower or maximum lift height. Two assemblies using the same series can have different tubing, end fittings, balancing requirements and usable travel.
Identify an existing joint by the manufacturer's measuring method, including cap diameter, the specified span and retention style. An axle-shaft joint and a driveshaft joint should not be treated as interchangeable simply because a catalog uses similar series terminology. The identification illustration and checklist below explain what to record before matching a joint to its catalog drawing.
| Decision | What to compare |
|---|---|
| Load capacity | The shaft maker's recommendation for vehicle weight, power, tires, gearing and intended use. |
| Attachments | Compatible transfer-case and differential yokes or flanges, including any required conversions. |
| Working range | Joint angles, clearance and usable slip travel through the intended suspension movement. |
| Road use | Shaft length, balance and the manufacturer's speed limits for the complete assembly. |
| Ownership cost | Installation, supporting parts and the actual lubrication and inspection requirements. |
How to identify what is on the vehicle
Start with the assembly tag or part number, then verify the physical joint and retention arrangement. A caliper is more useful than a tape measure for distinguishing similar cap diameters. Clean the measuring surfaces and avoid taking a reading across rust buildup, a grease fitting or a damaged edge.
- Record the diameter of the bearing caps on each axis.
- Measure the span specified by the matching catalog drawing. Depending on retention style, the reference may be overall cap width or a dimension associated with the retaining rings.
- Identify how the caps are retained: snap rings, straps, U-bolts or another arrangement. Photograph the clips and yoke.
- Check the other axis separately. A combination joint can join different sizes and may not be symmetrical.
- Match all observations to a part specification before ordering.
The illustration shows an overall-span measurement, not a universal catalog convention. Do not interchange it with a lockup dimension. If the joint is still installed and a required surface is inaccessible, use identification information and professional assistance rather than estimating hidden dimensions.
1310 and 1350 are options, not the whole market
Trucks and SUVs also use other U-joint series, metric joints and ball-type CV assemblies. A Ford pickup, GM truck, Ram, Toyota or Nissan does not become a 1310 or 1350 application simply because those numbers appear in an upgrade guide. Some original assemblies have joints that are not serviced like a conventional replaceable cross-and-bearing joint.
For a Tacoma or 4Runner, for example, establish the existing flange interface and shaft configuration before discussing a series conversion. For a long-wheelbase pickup, determine whether the vehicle has a one-piece or multi-piece shaft. For a Bronco or Jeep, identify the generation and actual drivetrain rather than ordering by the model name alone. These are configuration checks, not claims that one shaft fits every vehicle named.
Use your build details to narrow the choice
A daily-driven vehicle on moderate trails may have very different requirements from a heavy rig with added power and high-traction tires. Supply those details to the manufacturer or retailer instead of choosing a series from tire diameter alone. Evaluate the front and rear positions separately.
Gearing matters too. At the same road speed and tire diameter, a numerically higher axle ratio increases driveshaft speed. That is a reason to check the shaft's operating envelope, not proof that every regear needs a larger joint. Shock loads from wheel hop or sudden traction can also matter more than steady cruising loads.
Example: a buyer planning an axle conversion should confirm the new pinion connection before selecting a shaft. Ordering the stronger joint series first and discovering a mismatched yoke later can add parts, downtime and installation work.
Why a bigger joint is not the whole upgrade
Changing from 1310 to 1350 can involve the shaft assembly and its attachment hardware. A conversion joint may connect two different interfaces when specifically appropriate, but it does not turn every smaller component into a larger-series system. Ask what remains unchanged and whether that configuration is approved for the intended load.
More strength also does not guarantee more angular movement. Clearance depends on the particular yokes and joint design. A shaft that bolts in at ride height can still bind or run out of travel elsewhere. Joint-series selection and single versus double cardan layout are separate decisions.
Compare the whole system and the cost of changing it
A larger U-joint cannot strengthen a damaged yoke, worn slip section or unsuitable tube. Ask whether the quote includes a complete balanced assembly, conversion yokes or flanges, adapters, fasteners and any required service parts. Confirm whether a pinion-yoke change requires a vehicle-specific bearing-preload procedure; it is not simply an opportunity to tighten a nut by feel.
Separate sustained loads from impacts. A loaded truck on the highway, a tow vehicle and a low-speed crawler may all need different assessments. A stronger driveshaft does not increase the vehicle manufacturer's payload or tow rating. Likewise, selecting a larger series does not fix wheel hop or poor suspension geometry.
For frequent highway use, ask about the complete shaft's suitability at the intended speed and length. Tube diameter, material, length and balance matter alongside the joints. The correct answer may be a compatible replacement of the existing design, rather than a conversion.
What to send before ordering
- Vehicle year, model, engine, transmission and transfer case.
- Front or rear position, wheelbase and axle configuration.
- Lift and shock details, tire size, gearing, added power and usual load.
- Clear photographs of both attachments and any existing part numbers.
- The measurements requested for the proposed assembly.
Browse Driveshafts & U-Joints and the Adams Driveshaft range after identifying those requirements. Compare complete kits rather than assuming similarly named products include the same yokes, adapters or bolts.
Questions about 1310 and 1350 selection
Is 1350 always better than 1310?
It can provide useful additional capacity in a suitable assembly. The better purchase is the one whose fitment, working angles, load recommendation and road-use requirements match your vehicle. A larger-series shaft with unsuitable geometry is not an improvement.
Can I choose by a horsepower rating?
Do not use an isolated horsepower figure as the entire specification. Torque, gearing, traction, shaft speed and the way the vehicle is driven affect the application. Use ratings and recommendations for the exact assembly rather than a universal internet chart.
Does a 1350 upgrade eliminate maintenance?
No. Service requirements depend on the components selected. Sealed U-joints do not establish that the slip section or centering mechanism is maintenance-free. Read the complete shaft's instructions.
Should I order before installing my lift or replacement axle?
Confirm the ordering sequence with the shaft maker. Final measurements commonly need the relevant modifications completed. Our driveshaft measurement checklist explains how to prepare the information without guessing a length.
Are 1310 and 1350 joints direct replacements for each other?
No. Their mating requirements differ. A planned conversion must account for both ends of the shaft and every required interface. Do not force a cap into a yoke or substitute hardware to make a mismatched joint fit.
Should a spare trail joint match the front or rear shaft?
Check every joint position. A vehicle can use different series at the front and rear, and a conversion joint can differ at one end. Record the exact replacement numbers instead of buying one spare based on the vehicle model.